Watches Dating Profiles: Italy - Unimatic, U-Boat, And Panerai Are Wild And Full Of Life

April 06, 2022

Italy is known for bold design and expert handicraft. The watches featured in this edition of Watch Dating Profiles bring that and then some. Bold, striking, and unapologetic, these watches get as close to a short red dress or Italian Barbera red wine as any watch can. The Unimatic U1 Classic is a thick and bold yet minimalist approach to the classic dive tool watch. The U-Boat Classico 45 Tungsteno Movelock is large, loud, and demands ones full attention. Finally, the Panerai Luminor Marina ref. PAM01313 embodies Italys incredible history as the modern-day iteration of one of the worlds first dive watches. Its still bold, but also the most elegant watch that Italys boldest watch designers can deliver. If youre ready for some fun, put your dancing shoes on and unbutton the top three on your shirt its Italian time.Unlike some of the other countries weve featured so far, Italy has a fairly non-existent watch-movement industry (if any Fratelli know otherwise, please enlighten me in the comments). Italian watch companies source their movements from the standard places Switzerland and Japan. Or, more often, as with Panerai and other prominent names, theyll opt to have the watches entirely Swiss-made. This wasnt always the case Panerai and the like historically manufactured watches in Italy but cest la vie. But for various reasons, the Swiss won out on the movement and manufacturing side of watch production. To stay relevant, Italian watch companies doubled down on their incredible strength of uniquely Italian design. And its paying dividends. Some watch brands, like Unimatic, are intent on bringing watchmaking back to The Boot, even if the movements come from elsewhere.Unimatic U1 Classic ref. UC-1 soon to be an Italian standardUnimatic is a young watch company with a timeless design. Formed by college friends Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato, united by their love of vintage Seikos, Unimatic started as a side project to explore the intersection of form and function in the simple tool watch. A few years, a few models, and lots of hard work later, Unimatic was thriving as an affordable yet exclusive Italian microbrand capitalizing on its unique design language. Today, we look at a member of the recent unlimited release of the Classic line, the UC-1.The UC-1 is 40mm of brushed steel goodness, with black for any surface that requires color. On paper, one might call the design reserved. But like the rest of Unimatics line, in actuality, its a lot louder. Black in high doses is bold and undoes any attempt at stealth. The UC-1 has what I consider to be black in a high dose. Accents come in the form of the almost-white hands, hour indices, and lumed pip on the bezel. Excluding the radical horizontal hour index at 6 oclock, the watch approaches quintessential diver territory. If were talking Platos ideals (well excuse his not being Italian), the UC-1 is just about as close to the mark as Ive ever seen.Design is in the detailsThis less-is-more, reductive approach to building a watch permeates every aspect. In the theme of taking only what it needs, such as with the case material, finishing, dial design, and palette, the movement within is equally utilitarian. A Seiko Instruments NH35A beats within at 21,600vph. The sapphire crystal with its anti-reflective coating is perhaps the fanciest part of the UC-1.But the watch is a dive watch, and thoroughly so. Its water-resistance rating is a capable 300 meters. The 120-click bezel is unidirectional. The black nylon strap it comes on is water-ready. The bold white parts of the bezel, dial, and hands are all lumed in Super-LumiNova C3. As attentively designed as the UC-1 may be, the goal was never lost. In fact, the reductive approach makes more of a dive watch than many other dive watches with superfluous flourishes or features. If it is guilty of any flourish, its in the signed crown with Unimatics mammarian brand symbol and the engraved case back. On the latter, youll find much more information than you would think for such a stripped-down watch, including an individual serial number.Cool and collected is the UC-1 and its tribeUnimatics UC-1 is for those inclined towards excellent design without flex. Unimatics limited-edition offerings are notorious for selling out in minutes, and the unique tweaks in design elevate the cool factor in their exclusivity. But with the UC-1 about to launch Unimatics first unlimited offering you get to own a Unimatic outside of the scarcity hype. That is to say, you can own the watch for the watchs sake. With a design as pure as what the UC-1 brings to the table, I say its about time Unimatic watches got some space to exist unrestrained by batch sizes.The UC-1 is that perfect addition to a restrained but infinitely flexible ensemble of possessionsThe ideal wearer of Unimatics UC-1 is a minimalist. While you dont necessarily have to wear all black, the clothes you do own are at least versatile, functional, and few. Why clutter ones life up with material possessions if they slow you down in experiencing life? The UC-1 is that perfect addition to a restrained but infinitely flexible ensemble of possessions. Its able to accompany the wearer on outdoor adventures and gallery openings alike. At 525, practical refinement is the name of the game. Any price lower than that for the UC-1 would approach the absurd.But like the UC-1 you may have a penchant for understated flair. Its in the details that one can find elements of self-expression and fun amidst the practical minimalism of your presentation. The Unimatic UC-1 is a microcosm of that stylistic tension, and it may be that crack in the facade that welcomes keen observers in to learn more. At the very least, if you need a conversation piece to shine among all the black in your wardrobe, the UC-1 will do the job beautifully.But what about Italy?For all its restraint, Unimatic is fiercely Italian. Moro and Nunziato have worked to move as much of the watch-building within Italys borders as possible. Some parts are made in Italy. Water-resistance testing and casing are performed in Italy. Of course, the design process occurs in Italy. But if theres anything that points to Unimatic being an Italian watch company (aside from the assertion on the watch dials), its in the option of manual engraving for certain pieces. Currently reserved only for the Modello Due watch cases, this artisan hand-engraving elevates already refined watches to an entirely different level. As hard as Unimatic tries to keep things subdued, theres just no escaping that Italian flavor of beauty and expression. That specific Italian-ness is something our next brand, U-Boat, is no stranger to and has no qualms embracing.U-better watch out for this U-Boat Classico 45 Tungsteno MovelockU-Boat is another young company, but one that makes unapologetically large (like, really large), loud, Italian watches. After finding his grandfathers watch designs for the Italian Navy, Italo Fontana founded U-Boat to develop the idea and create what is undeniably an Italian watch company. Many of the watches feature the imposing screw-down cap on the destro crown, a characteristic of the original design, apparently. Theres no way a crown assembly like that could wear comfortably on the right side. Some watches are oil-filled to improve dial clarity and have a fun bubble zooming around under the crystal. Unfortunately, the U-Boat Classico 45 Tungsteno Movelock ref. 8075 is not oil-filled, but its fun nonetheless and full of flavor.The Classico 45 Tungsteno Movelock, as the name suggests, is a classic riff on the original U-Boat design with some key features. First of all, the bezel on the 45mm behemoth is made of tungsten, and thus virtually unscratchable. It also employs the Movelock protective mechanism, combining a screw-down crown cap and crown-lifting lever for setting the time. This is not unlike Panerais crown-protection mechanism, though it is very much unique in its right. But it seems there certainly was a theme in protective elements for Italys early water watches.Specs and flexThe Movelock system is interwoven with the chronograph pushers, all on the left side of the case. Its a lot going on in a small space on the case band, and I think thats the point. This is a watch that wants to combine technical ability with a robust appearance, and theres a lot of overlap. The right side of the case features a bold U-BOAT engraving, and the case back is partially see-through thanks to the large sapphire U-shaped window. This is all in case you forget who makes this watch.This watch is about ego, Italos included.The large dial is a bold black with oversized fauxtina mixed hour indices and Arabic numerals. These are chopped up by the sub-dials of the automatic chronograph movement, seemingly an upside-down Valjoux 7750, though U-Boat doesnt specify. There is an added 24-hour dial nestled in among the sub-dials. The text on the dial simply states U-Boat and Italo Fontana. This watch is about ego, Italos included. The almost comically close lugs hold onto the normal-sized (but tiny-looking) 20mm handmade brown leather strap. Though U-Boat doesnt specify, I would be shocked if it wasnt Italian leathercraft.Mi perdoni, wrist clock coming throughThe U-Boat Classico 45 Tungsteno Movelock is not for the small-wristed. Or maybe it is if you have enough machismo to back it up with. And thats what this U-Boat is all about. You wear this watch to be noticed. Its size prevents any chance of sliding it under a cuff. Its design, however, wouldnt let you even if you could. And though you may not garner the instant brand recognition and honor a might bring, the wrist -candy element with all the pushers, caps, and engravings is through the roof.You may be the sort of person that only travels with an entourage. You may be the sort of person that orders dinner for everyone. Either way, youre the center of attention, or at least you strive to be. The U-Boat Classico 45 on your wrist accompanies the many rings and bracelets alongside it perfectly. It is the Hummer H2 of watches. It looks tough and does a good enough job doing that it never actually needs to be tough. Because at 100 meters of water resistance, all those bells and whistles are primarily for show. Youre not taking this thing diving, but no one could see your U-Boat underwater anyway, so its a moot point.This 4,500 U-Boat is all Italian extravagance. If thats a persona you embody, youve found an apt wrist companion. Itll look excellent as you fight for the check after a few bottles of wine. Just dont let it come to blows, as the weight of the U-Boat on a wrist guarantees a knockout. Be like the U-Boat look tough, be fun.Another opportunity for exceptional Italian craftNot to be outdone by anyone, least of all minimalist Unimatic, U-Boat takes its uniquely Italian case decoration to the next level. The Classico 45 is hardly the brands wildest design. For an example of pure showmanship, look no further than U-Boats Roma Silver. The case is entirely crafted of 925 sterling silver.Like the fine marble sculptures peppered throughout Italy that once were solid blocks, Tuscan silversmiths hand-chisel the case away to reveal detailed dioramas of some of Romes most iconic scenes. If that isnt an Italian watch, I dont know what is.Panerai Luminor Marina 44mm ref. PAM01313Weve gone subtle. Weve gone bold. Now we hit a sweet spot with Panerai, what I consider to be the quintessential Italian watch. Sure, the brand is more Swiss than Italian at this point, at least as far as manufacturing goes. Panerais history and design, however, are proudly Florentine. To round out this vivacious presentation of some of the Mediterraneans best, what better representative than a watch as cool blue as the Mediterranean itself with substantial water history to boot.The Luminor Marina at 44mm, referred to from here on out by its reference PAM01313 is at the current end of a long lineage of Panerai watches intended for the sea. Present here like with U-Boat is a unique crown guard. However, in this case, its just small enough to justify keeping it on the right side. The sandwich dial with luminous material underneath (no longer radium, thank goodness), is quintessential Panerai. So too are the numerals every three hours. The PAM01313 modernizes with a date window at 3 oclock and small seconds at 9 oclock, made possible by the automatic caliber P.9010, one of Panerais workhorse movements.Pretty large, and just prettyYes, the case is large, but if Italians have taught us anything, its that wearing a large watch is okay. There must be some beefy-wristed Italians out there thoroughly enjoying the attention to their wrist demographic, but I assure you, not everyone wearing large Italian pieces has the wrists of Andr?? the Giant (he was French, for the record). Panerai has been around long enough to show that large watches can be elegant, and the PAM01313 is especially so.Elegance is the name of the game with the PAM01313. Though Panerais roots are in tool-watch territory, the Italian-ness of the designs lends an inevitable style, not unlike whats found in Unimatics industrial designs. The PAM01313s sunray blue dial and blue strap mix with the polished and brushed surfaces of the stainless steel case in a watch that says, I used to dive. Now I enjoy life. Dont underestimate the PAM01313 though. Unlike U-Boats Classico, the PAM01313 is water-resistant to 300 meters, though youll want to change that elegant crocodile strap first.Panerai bold elegance worth notingThe fact that there is a name for Panerai aficionados Paneristi should tell you everything you need to know. In fact, Im terrified to describe an ideal owner of the PAM01313 and end up offending some 30,000 others. Ill play it safe and say that the ideal owner of the PAM01313 is someone who knows the good things in life and isnt apprehensive about enjoying them.having a Panerai as a daily wearer is similar to what is achieved with a daily-wearer , though with an entirely different focus on priorities.I imagine the PAM01313 accompanying someone in a linen suit and sockless loafers (Italian), seated comfortably at some seaside cafe. You might be sipping Fernet Branca and halfway listening to subdued accordion and mandolin from somewhere down the street. If youre wearing a 7,900 PAM01313 and wearing it well, I can only assume that youre doing okay, and happy enough to go slow and take in the pleasures of life. Panerai is no , but I dare to go as far as to say that having a Panerai as a daily wearer is similar to what is achieved with a daily-wearer , though with an entirely different focus on priorities. (I think Ive succumbed to expert marketing practices, and apologize for foisting them upon you.)But theres always room for fun. Itd be a real shame to let that water resistance go to waste. The suit can quickly be forgone for an impromptu midnight Mediterranean dip with a new acquaintance. I doubt a watch has ever gotten someone to home base, but a Panerai certainly wont get in the way of that happening. gallery-1 {margin: auto;} gallery-1 .gallery-item {float: left;margin-top: 10px;text-align: center;width: 33%;} gallery-1 img {border: 2px solid cfcfcf;} gallery-1 .gallery-caption {margin-left: 0;}/* see gallery_shortcode() in wp-includes/media.php */Italian watches = funIf that last statement doesnt pre-emptively dodge any ire from the united Paneristi, then I was in trouble before I even started. There are many more brands of Italian watches not featured here, but if there is a thematic element that connects them all its a certain Italian flavor of fun. Full of life (even when attempting austerity), rich, and unapologetic about their presence, the Unimatic UC-1, U-Boat Classico 45 Tungsteno Movelock, and Panerai PAM01313 are thoroughly united in what makes them proud Italian watches. They offer more than enough fun for anyone thats struck by their looks. The question is, which one will you choose? Let us know in the comments below. More information can be found at the websites for Unimatic, U-Boat, and Panerai. Arrivederci!